Off the Menu: Hydrangea Catering planning farm dinners

Warren W. Leigh of Springfield has set a goal for himself this summer – taking dining out back to its "roots."

Currently a chef-instructor in the Culinary Arts Program at Holyoke Community College, Leigh has more than 20 years experience as a chef and restaurant owner. His current venture, Hydrangea Catering, is hosting a series of farm dinners over the next three months.

"We'll be going back to the way we used to eat," Leigh says of these dinners, "local products, in season, when they're freshest and best."

Leigh is collaborating with two Pioneer Valley farms to produce the dinners. Red Fire Farm in Granby will be hosting three of the events, while Bug Hill Farm in Ashfield will help sponsor the others.

Talking of his plans for the dinners, Leigh said, "the fun part is that we're actually going to be right out in the farm itself. At Red Fire we'll be out in the barn; at Bug Hill we'll be dining on the front porch of their farmhouse."

"It's also a chance to meet and talk to the farmers," he added, "and, if you want, to take a tour of the farm."

Even though the setting might be rustic, the experience won't be, Leigh promises.
"We'll be using linen and china," he said.

The bill of fare at each three-course dinner will be part of the adventure. "We'll be basing the menu on what best and freshest from the farm that day or the day before," he said.

Leigh has teamed up with Steady Lane Farm in Ashfield as a supplier of pasture-raised beef for each dinner; a vegetarian option can also be requested.

Leigh chose Red Fire Farm as one of the farm dinner venues because of his respect for what Ryan Volland, the farm's owner, has achieved.

"Ryan is a great steward of the land," Leigh said., "and Red Fire is large enough to offer a good variety of products."

Bug Hill Farm in Ashfield, the other location with which Leigh is working, provides him with some unique additional options. Kate Kervian, who owns and operates Bug Hill, has developed an assortment of value-added products. These include non-alcoholic cordials, shrubs, sauces, and spreads, all of which are made from her berry crops, wild-harvested flowers, and locally-produced honey.

Leigh's planning on introducing some of those specialties into the dinners he holds at Bug Hill; he also hopes to include tastings of Bug Hill beverage products.

Both farms that Leigh is working with are certified organic operations.

The first of Leigh's "Dinner on the Farm" programs is planned for Aug. 17 at Red Fire. The evening will begin with hors d'oeuvres and beverages at 5:30 p.m.; dinner is scheduled for 6:15 p.m. and is expected to last about an hour and a half.

Leigh has two additional dates penciled in at Red Fire Farm -- Sept. 21 and Oct.19.

An "Old Fashioned Sunday Dinner" at Bug Hill Farm will be held on Sunday, August 25, starting at 12 noon with drinks, nibbles, and a discussion of Kervian's work in introducing permaculture techniques to Bug Hill. Dinner will start at 1 p.m.; an optional "pick-your-own" session will be available at 11 a.m.

Future Bug Hill dinners are on tap for Sept. 22 and Oct.r 20.

Tickets for these dinners are $85 and can be ordered by emailing warren.leigh@hydrangeacatering.com. For more information about either event series, contact Leigh at (413) 455-3082.



Hugh Robert is a faculty member in Holyoke Community College's hospitality and culinary arts program and has over 35 years of restaurant and educational experience. Please send items of interest to Off the Menu at the Republican, P.O. Box 2350, Springfield, MA 01102; Robert can also be reached at OffTheMenuGuy@aol.com

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