Small town bistros are near the top of the restaurant world's endangered species list, their economic habitat increasingly decimated by chain eateries. Fortunately, establishments like the BridgeSide Grille in Sunderland are managing to preserve the independent eatery experience.
BridgeSide's character and authenticity aren't its only attractions, however.
Doing business from a small building that's been home to a series of restaurants over the past 30 plus years, the Grille provide a pleasant, country-cozy environment in which to enjoy a meal "out."
The Grille's primary virtue, we discovered, is its "pub food with flair" emphasis. Admittedly the menu lists items of a mainstream sort, but the overall quality of that which the Grille's kitchen produces transcends the typical "pub" experience.
Among the entrees listed on the dinner menu are choices like crumb-topped Baked Haddock ($16) and Grilled Pub Steak ($20) as well as Shrimp Scampi ($19), balsamic-glazed Grilled Salmon ($19), and Potato Crusted Chicken ($14) that's enhanced with a horseradish dill sauce.
The agenda's "Starters and Shares" department describes options such as house-made Crab Cakes ($10), Mussels ($10) simmered in white wine, and a tortilla-crusted Mexican Pizza ($9) topped with either spicy beef or Buffalo chicken.
Supplementing those possibilities are the likes of Fried Brussels Sprouts ($6) and honey-drizzled Gorgonzola Bread ($5).
We started our dinner with Irish Nachos ($8), a creation that's increasingly finding space on local restaurant menus.
BridgeSide takes liberties with the idea, replacing the more typical corned beef with pork barbecue and omitting the sauerkraut altogether.
The restaurant's version, a mound of made-there potato chips topped with a layer of sassy-flavored pulled pork and lots of melted Cheddar, is nonetheless quite likeable. A side of pepper-packed chipotle mayonnaise is provided as a dip.
The nachos, we agreed, are more of a tribute to the backyard barbecue lifestyle than the corned-beef-and-cabbage tradition.
As much as we enjoyed the nachos, our plate of Lemon Chicken ($15) was even more to our liking.
A pounded-out breast cutlet had been battered and sauteed in the "Francaise" fashion, while a lemon-shallot cream sauce provided a delicately tart flavor backdrop to the chicken's own moist character.
Steamed rice infused with the essence of scallions served as one accompaniment, while a colorful medley of zucchini, summer squash, red bell pepper, and red onion rounded out the plate presentation.
Several pasta dishes populate the Grille's menu. The one we sampled, a Seafood Toss ($20), demonstrated the kitchen's skill at cooking and saucing a noodle.
Al dente penne was dressed with a robust yet pleasingly mellow garlic cream. Jumbo shrimp, halved scallops, diced tomato, and a few leaves of baby spinach completed the "toss."
Definitely a dish we'd be up for enjoying again.
"Mains," as they're called at BridgeSide, come with an attractive house salad. A selection of made-there dressings is available.
Fully licensed, The BridgeSide Grille is fitted out with a vest pocket bar that dispenses beer and specialty cocktails. A small wine card that lists a half-dozen-plus bottles is also available.
The Grille's dessert lineup, all of which is priced at $6, ranges from creme brulee and coconut cream pie to a traditional brownie sundae.
The Toll House Cookie Pie was first rate - a crisp piecrust filled with chocolate chip cookie dough baked until that dough acquired a soft, slightly chewy texture. Served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, the pie was a fine way to bring a dinner to a close.
We also appreciated what the restaurant's Apple Crisp had to offer. Lightly seasoned with cinnamon and spice and not overly sweet, the crisp had a soft, biscuit style topping.
On weekend mornings the Grille opens early to serve an extensive breakfast menu that features omelets, various "eggs-and" specials, breakfast sandwiches, and big-city morning noshes such as lox and bagels or riffs on eggs Benedict.
The restaurant also maintains a "kids table" assortment of meals for young patrons.
Name: BridgeSide Grille
Address: 9 Amherst Road, Sunderland
Telephone: (413) 397-8101
Website: bridgesidegrille.com
Hours: Tuesday through Friday 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Saturday 8 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sunday 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Entree prices: $14 -$20
Credit cards: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped access: Accessible, with rest rooms equipped for wheelchairs
Reservations: Not normally taken