Restaurant review: The Gill Tavern


When it comes to dining out options, most of the smaller towns in Western New England have to make do with a coffee shop or roadside eatery. Few communities are fortunate enough to have an operation like the Gill Tavern to provide high-class yet affordable sustenance to the local populace.

Located in a structure that once housed a general store, the Gill Tavern is a small yet comfortable dining venue.

A vest-pocket open kitchen occupies one corner of the space; the store's original sales counter now serves as cocktail bar. The ambiance is authentically rural, but big-city touches like crisp linen napkins and sleek acrylic peppermills betray an underlying sophistication.

We caught the Gill Tavern on the cusp of a menu change; as has been the operation's long-standing practice, the culinary agenda focuses on savory comfort fare infused with style and creativity.

Current main dish choices range from a Grass-fed Beef Burger ($12) to Crispy Pork Tacos ($16) served with fresh lime and cilantro slaw.

A French country classic, Coq au Vin Blanc ($18) is available, as is meat-free Orecchiette Pasta ($14) dressed with arugula pesto and served with pan-roasted vegetables.

No mozzarella sticks or chicken wings are to be found at the Gill Tavern. Instead, starters include Roasted House-marinated Olives ($3), Shaved Brussels Sprouts ($4.50), Mussels with Andouille Sausage ($12) and a Charcuterie ($14) plate accompanied by pickled vegetable and olives.

Looking to share something a bit heartier, we opted to split a Three Pigs ($15) pizza.
An oversized oval of flatbread crust had been lightly brushed with barbecue sauce, then garnished with chips of braised pork, crumbled fennel sausage, bacon, and sliced fresh mozzarella.

We liked the pleasing combination of pork and subtle smokiness, but we found ourselves wishing the pie had been prepared with just a smidgen more sauce.

A serving of Moroccan Beef and Lamb Stew ($19) was the sort of robust comfort food that's ideally suited to a chilly spring evening.

The locally raised lamb had a mellow meatiness that harmonized well with the beef. Halved prunes and pieces of preserved orange lent the dish the North African flavor profile the stew's name suggested.

Mixing in separately sauteed chunks of potato, a technique that preserved their texture and shape, was an interesting (and appreciated) part of the preparation.

Our other main dish choice, Irish Fish Cakes ($17), was humble fare made special through the good offices of kitchen finesse. Fashioned from a mixture of diced potato and flaked salmon, the three cakes had been panko crusted then pan-crisped. A drizzle of buttermilk dressing flavored with lemon and thyme completed the presentation.

A house salad - baby greens, radishes, thin-sliced cucumber, julienned raw carrot, and sprigs of baby parsley - was also included.

Though our fish cakes did come with a greenery "side," most other items don't; bread is also an a la carte extra at the Gill Tavern.

A sophisticated beverage program is in force at the restaurant. In addition to a wine list populated by an ambitious array of possibilities, the bar is stocked with craft beers, locally produced hard ciders, meads, and specialty spirits.

The Tavern even has a selection of nonalcoholic "mocktails," like a refreshing-sound Rosemary Lemon Spritzer ($3.50).

Dessert choices vary; the evening we stopped in the house was pairing Cherry Pie ($6) with a scoop of locally made ice cream.

We instead opted to share a wedge of Death by Chocolate ($6), a layer cake whose intensity merited its macabre designation. Iced with a glossy fudge buttercream, it was a study in dark and delicious.

On Sundays the Tavern opens early to serve brunch, a meal occasion that features morning food reimagined, such as a Baked Apple Buttermilk Pancake ($8) and Eggs Benedicto ($11.50), a hollandaise-drenched stack-up of pan seared polenta, crisped prosciutto, and poached eggs.

Outdoor seating is available when weather permits.

Name: The Gill Tavern
Address: 326 Main Road, Gill
Telephone: (413) 863-9006
Website: thegilltavern.com
Hours: Open Sunday, Wednesday, and Thursday, 5 to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5 to 9:30 p.m.; and Sunday brunch 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Entree prices: $12- $18
Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa
Handicapped access: Accessible, with rest rooms equipped for wheelchairs
Reservations: Accepted

If you purchase a product or register for an account through a link on our site, we may receive compensation. By using this site, you consent to our User Agreement and agree that your clicks, interactions, and personal information may be collected, recorded, and/or stored by us and social media and other third-party partners in accordance with our Privacy Policy.